I got back on Friday from a duty travel (work trip) to Damascus, Beirut and Amman. It was a week of intense images, really tight schedules, a lot of stress and some fabulous connections with people and places. I fell in love with Damascus - the same way I fell in love with Istanbul all those years ago. I haven't felt like this for a city in 15 years. It was like spiritually coming home and my body tingled everytime we entered the city. I really liked Amman, and Beirut is of course superb, even in post-conflict situations. But, neither clicked with me the same way as Damascus did.
The work was amazing - we travelled the whole region, preparing our report and seeing every aspect of this huge project. It was all very political (with regard to the project, the in-house rivalries, and the larger world political context) and tired me out emotionally and physically. In many ways, I'm mentally stuck in the region. I woke up today wondering how they are doing in Beirut, Miss S has left, how is V? What is Mo-mo doing now etc etc. On one hand I was regaled with stories of cruelty towards the domestic workers who we are helping evacuate Beirut (over for now), and on the other hand I was amazed by the generosity and kindness of all the people in the region - from the rich to the poor.
The food was amazing though I didn't touch a single arab sweet sadly! But, I got seriously hooked on the shisha/hookah/nargeela/hubbly bubbly. My favourite flavour is Rose. I didn't get to do any shopping and one consequence of that is my surroundings were full of men (spending time at work, border crossings, the bar and cafes) and less interaction with women from the region and chances to chat to them. I did chat to a lot of people though and met one or two non-work related people who I will keep in touch with.
I travelled with H from work - friend and work mate. It was up and down and I'm happy we are close enough so we could fight with ease. I couldn't have done the trip without him - he was great though pushy. I'm not a field person though I like emergency work. But, I'm more about long-term strategy and outcomes. Emergency work is for the now, the present, and is without very much context and all about operations and just getting the job done quickly and well. I did find the pace quite a surprise --- you have to be young to keep doing it. I heard a few stories of serious illnesses after emergency stints.
Are all emergency situations full of unspoken tension? It seems like that? Is that because there are fewer women (hence sexual tension) or because the intensity of what you are doing heightens all situations? Or because you work, eat, sleep and depend on these people 24/7? Any way, per my past experience with the Afghanistan crew, everyone is more open to life and people are far less bitchy or stuck up. The emergency lot are really down to earth and the good ones are thinkers as well.
Having said the above, I would be fine with the boy going on emergency work and to post-concflict zones. I may or may not join him, but I would be fine with him going - I know deep down this is his stuff, if not totally mine. I think Alex's situation in S is the best. He's there doing what he loves, but with his wife and kid.
So much to say and to process...hope to get some photos from H of the trip and will post them here.
It is good to be home but I feel disconnected. Also, this isn't totally home and so I'm really in between places - one foot out and one foot in. Could I get to work in Damascus, I wonder? How could I wangle this? I would have to learn Arabic and focus on the region in some way.
One totally positive result of this trip is I now (thanks to the Syrian's propensity for large and colourful visas) have ONLY 3 full pages left in my passport. If I play my cards well (travel a lot soon!) I can get a new pssport soon (in less than one year really) and have a NEW PHOTO taken. Ha ha, no more, mexican maid murder suspect!
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